Friday, 19 January 2001 · Canasgordas, Colombia
Canasgordas marks the edge of what I've earmarked as a hot spot. At the one bridge over the Rio Sucio, a group of men rise from their chairs, ready to intercept me.
I duck into a café, order a Coke, try to think. The barman glances at me, then the street, then me.
The men appear in the doorway — two big and mean, one with a badly scarred face — and behind them five more begin pulling down the metal shutters. I'm trapped.
“Give me your papers.”
From three years on the road I've learned you cannot show fear; they feed on it.
So I smile, and hand them over.
Sunday, 21 January 2001 · Dabeiba, Colombia
Before I go, last night's hosts warn that this next stretch is very dangerous. “If anybody points a gun at you, put your hands up,” says one, who also advises carrying a white flag to wave if I meet any bad guys.
I reach Dabeiba at 15:30, again the talk of the town. This place has been overrun three times by the FARC.
Last time there was a two-day battle; they mortared the town with bombs made from gas cylinders, and withdrew only when helicopter gunships arrived.
Right now there's a strong military presence — which, for once, is good news.
Sunday, 28 January 2001 · Bajira, Colombia
The officer and his sergeant try one last time to change my mind, then desist. From his pocket the lieutenant pulls a dictaphone to record my decision, so they won't suffer comebacks when I turn up dead.
He composes an official memo — time, date, place, the people involved — and signs it. I am almost physically sick with fear. This could be the last day of my life.
I pen a short letter to be forwarded to my family in England, and hand it to the lieutenant to post.
“You understand all I've said?” “Yes.”
I head west along the dusty track.
Friday, 16 February 2001 · Boca de Cupe, Panama
I hear music ahead, and stumble into a clearing and some huts. For a moment I think I'm looking at sandbagged positions — then I realise I am, and at a belt-fed machine gun.
I sidle around the back, unchallenged, and walk up to a man in dark-green uniform carrying an AK-47. “Who are you?” he asks, very surprised. “Who are you?” I reply.
The Kevlar helmets and police shirts on the washing line tell me they're friendly. I'm searched, questioned, and — having no visa — locked in a cell for the night.
An illegal immigrant, at last out of the jungle.
Friday, 23 February 2001 · La Palma, Panama
I'm searched, processed, and thrown into a compound with a hundred jailed Latinos. Wolf-whistles, comments. “Look, it's Chuck Norris! No — Rambo!”
Green uniform, combat vest, headband, months unshaved: I do look like a one-man army from a Hollywood film. I have to get this right from the start, show some bottle.
“Well — you're one bunch of ugly so-and-sos,” I begin, smiling. “And you're one pretty piece of arse,” comes the reply — then laughter.
Word spreads: it's the walker. Ricky, a mean-looking man with a heart of gold, hands me his bigger food bowl. “You need it more than me.”